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Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Pest and Diseases of Apricots

By John Hopkins

For apricots there must be some shelter from cold winds. There must be protection from the spring frosts, and there must be sufficient depths to the soil. Some people say that the spring frosts not only kill the blossom but damage the young wood and so start the die- back.

The trees grown by me have never been fed and they have made tremendous growth. They presumably get what they need from the compost-fed crops nearby. Where soils arc acid, carbonate of lime must be given, so as to bring the pH to 7.

Blackberries, of course, grow on their own roots and are not budded or grafted on to stocks. Blackberries grow very well indeed on the compost system. It pays to apply straw a foot deep or more not only between the rows but among the plants and thus there is no hoeing or forking to do. Such straw should be applied at the end of the first year, once it is known that the canes are growing well.

Each early March a fish manure with a 6 per cent potash content should be applied at the rate of about 3 oz, to the sq. yard, or 6 cwt. per acre. This should be put on top of the straw and be allowed to trickle through or wash in. If it is thought the canes are not growing clay, however, I prefer to plant early in the spring. This results in the least amount of loss.

Large Early Mount Gauiet Moorpark is perhaps the most famous of the true English apricots. Fruits largish brown-orange-yellow with brownish red on sunny side. Season late Aug.-early Sept.

The young canes, as they grow, are usually looped around with the wire and are thus attached to the lower wire of the support provided or taken to the wire above. The aim is to grow the blackberries up wires provided for the purpose. These are strained tightly on posts, 7 feet 6 inches

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