In countries with a temperate climate, it is safe to place those orchids that will benefit from the air outside in their pots by the end of late spring or the beginning of early summer.
The shade-loving genera can be accommodated beneath shade-cloth houses, which are open at the sides to allow air to flow through. This is the method used by commercial nurseries. Alternatively, the plants can be naturalized on trees in the garden. Here, once in position, they can grow into magnificent specimens with the minimum of care.
If you do not have a garden, your orchids can still enjoy the advantages of being outside for the summer. They are equally at home on a patio or even a balcony, provided they are shaded from direct sun during most of the day. Ideally, select a spot that is reached by either the early morning, the late afternoon or the evening sun only. This will ensure that the plants are in the shade during the hottest part of the day. Standing them against a white-washed wall will give them the added benefit of light reflected from behind. A roof garden may have just this situation.
By the end of the summer, usually coaching the end of early autumn, re nights become colder as the weather teriorates, and it is time to bring your plants back inside. Do this before the int frost appears, unless the orchids are bell protected by tree foliage above Vim, in which case they may stay out a ink longer, especially if the flower ikes are not yet showing.
Cattleyas are especially suited to naturalizing upon, and in their native Central America many are grown in this way in gardens, where they are a common sight flowering on the trunks and branches of trees. Where conditions are right for them, their aerial roots will be strong and active and provide most of the nourishment needed.
Ideally, stand the orchids on grit or expanded clay pellets in water-filled humidity trays. This will ensure some moisture around the plants at all times. There should be no problem with water overflow, which will normally run away into the surrounding ground. Any orchids growing on a balcony outside your window may have to be brought inside for watering if surplus water may cause a problem. Avoid standing the orchids directly on the ground, where the pots will be subjected to infestation by all types of ground-dwelling pests. To prevent the orchids from being blown off their bench during very windy weather, it is a good idea to place a small railing around the edge.
Tidy up your orchids at the same time, removing all old bracts on the cymbidiums, and cutting off any broken or brown leaves. Pull out any weeds that have grown in the compost, including mosses and ferns; these may look nice growing with the orchids, but they will clog up the compost, making watering more difficult.
The yellow Promenaea xanthina has been reintroduced on to this tree in its native Brazil where it naturally grows on the lower trunk of trees at high altitude in cloud-filled, humid rainforests.
The shade-loving genera can be accommodated beneath shade-cloth houses, which are open at the sides to allow air to flow through. This is the method used by commercial nurseries. Alternatively, the plants can be naturalized on trees in the garden. Here, once in position, they can grow into magnificent specimens with the minimum of care.
If you do not have a garden, your orchids can still enjoy the advantages of being outside for the summer. They are equally at home on a patio or even a balcony, provided they are shaded from direct sun during most of the day. Ideally, select a spot that is reached by either the early morning, the late afternoon or the evening sun only. This will ensure that the plants are in the shade during the hottest part of the day. Standing them against a white-washed wall will give them the added benefit of light reflected from behind. A roof garden may have just this situation.
By the end of the summer, usually coaching the end of early autumn, re nights become colder as the weather teriorates, and it is time to bring your plants back inside. Do this before the int frost appears, unless the orchids are bell protected by tree foliage above Vim, in which case they may stay out a ink longer, especially if the flower ikes are not yet showing.
Cattleyas are especially suited to naturalizing upon, and in their native Central America many are grown in this way in gardens, where they are a common sight flowering on the trunks and branches of trees. Where conditions are right for them, their aerial roots will be strong and active and provide most of the nourishment needed.
Ideally, stand the orchids on grit or expanded clay pellets in water-filled humidity trays. This will ensure some moisture around the plants at all times. There should be no problem with water overflow, which will normally run away into the surrounding ground. Any orchids growing on a balcony outside your window may have to be brought inside for watering if surplus water may cause a problem. Avoid standing the orchids directly on the ground, where the pots will be subjected to infestation by all types of ground-dwelling pests. To prevent the orchids from being blown off their bench during very windy weather, it is a good idea to place a small railing around the edge.
Tidy up your orchids at the same time, removing all old bracts on the cymbidiums, and cutting off any broken or brown leaves. Pull out any weeds that have grown in the compost, including mosses and ferns; these may look nice growing with the orchids, but they will clog up the compost, making watering more difficult.
The yellow Promenaea xanthina has been reintroduced on to this tree in its native Brazil where it naturally grows on the lower trunk of trees at high altitude in cloud-filled, humid rainforests.
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